“A rose red city half as old as time” – William Burgon

Concealed for centuries in the arid desert canyons of Jordan, visiting Petra is like stepping back in time. Exploring Petra will renew your sense of wonder and child-like imagination. Discovering the ancient, rock-cut city of Petra felt like stepping into an Indiana Jones movie (the third film, Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade featured Petra’s Siq canyon and Treasury). Beside the ornate and iconic exterior of the Treasury and the larger Monastery, there are countless smaller “petras” waiting to be discovered. I was able to see the most important wonders of Petra in a day, but you could easily stay for 2 or 3 nights and venture off on the countless hidden paths to find other less visited but equally breathtaking sites. In this blog, I will share everything you need to know about planning your visit to Petra.

A Brief History of Petra

The history of Petra is fascinating and knowing a little bit about the city’s remarkable past helped me fully appreciate it when planning my visit.

Who were the Nabateans?

The Nabateans were an ancient civilization of Arab tribal origins who excelled in architecture, engineering, and most importantly trade. Capitalizing on the profitable trade routes that ran though the region, the Nabataeans established Petra in the 6th century as their capital. The city rapidly became a focal point of commercial and cultural exchange connecting the thriving trade routes of the silk road and spice markets. Petra continued to grow in wealth and fame, employing the best architects and engineers of the time to design the layout of the city. Thanks to the Nabateans impressive engineering skills, highly effective water management systems like dams, cisterns, and aqueducts enabled the city to further expand.

The Nabateans also developed innovative architectural techniques by intricately carving the buildings of the city into the sandstone canyons. Starting from the top down, artisans would chisel the designs of the building with remarkable precision and detail. Homes, temples, and graves adorned the streets of the rose-red city. Greco-roman statuary was engraved in many of the buildings, an import from the various cultures that frequently interacted with the Nabatean Kingdom. Most monumental is the Treasury of Petra and the larger Monastery, which are architectural masterpieces.

Roman Conquest and Gradual Decline

Petra continued to grow in significance and wealth after its conquest by the Roman Empire. A Roman amphitheater was constructed and the roads were expanded. After Rome fell to barbarian invasions, the Byzantine’s built churches in Petra. Most remarkable is the ruins and mosaics of the church dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

No one knows exactly why or when Petra began to decline, but a large earthquake is generally attributed to the demise of the city. By the time the Islamic armies arrived from the corridors of Arabia, Petra was largely abandoned.

Rediscovery of the lost city

Petra remained forgotten from cultural memory for over a thousand years. This changed in 1812 when a Swiss explorer and adventurer named Johann Ludwig Burckhardt made an astonishing discovery. Searching for the starting point of the Niger river, Burckhardt headed eastwards, spending time in Syria, Palestine, and Lebanon on his route to Africa. He perfected the Arabic language and learned many of the customs of the Islamic world while in Aleppo.

Burckhardt heard whispers from traders and local goat herders of desert ruins. Pretending to offer a sacrifice at the shrine of Aaron the Prophet in the peaks of the desert mountains, Burckhardt stumbled across the forgotten ruins of Petra. The ancient city of Petra had finally been located and rediscovered. Ecstatic, Burckhardt had to keep a low profile. He made quick notations about the location of the city and performed his animal sacrifice, so as not to be mistaken as a Western treasure hunter.

Ever since Burckhardt’s rediscovery of the ancient city, Petra has captivated the world’s attention. Extensive archaeological efforts unfolded, revealing the grandeur and splendor of Petra. It become a treasured UNESCO World Heritage Sight and one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World. Petra is a proud symbol of Jordan and nearly a million people visit every year to admire the breathtaking and enchanting city of Petra and the ingenuity of the Nabataean civilization.

Planning Your Visit to Petra

Getting to petra

Petra is located in the modern town of Wadi Musa (the valley of Moses in Arabic), which has developed to accommodate travelers. You can either get to Petra by car or by bus. If you are renting a car in Jordan, you can drive from the capital Amman in the north or from the moon-like Wadi Rum desert and the coastal city of Aqaba in the south. You will most likely take either the well maintained Kings Highway or Desert Highway to Petra. Follow Google Maps or Waze and the well marked large brown signs directing you to the archaeological site of Petra. 

Taxi and rides-hare apps also transport visitors to Petra. If you will be taking a taxi or Uber, I recommend pre arranging transport in advance while planning your visit.
You can also take public transportation to Petra. The JETT is the Jordanian public bus system that connects the biggest cities and sights in Jordan. Daily routes connect Petra to major destinations including Amman, Wadi Rum, and Aqaba.

Where to stay

Wadi Musa has many accommodation options including hotels, Airbnbs, and hostels. You will find everything from luxury resorts to shared spaces offering a simple bed and a pillow. Petra has accommodations for every travel budget and preference. It is important to note that it is illegal to camp or stay in Petra at night.

I stayed at the Sunset Hotel, a mid-level hotel that was affordable without sacrificing comfort. The rooms were updated, clean, and offered scenic views of the hills of Wadi Musa. Most importantly, it was in close proximity to the entrance of Petra.

How much it costs to visit petra

The cost to visit Petra will depend on the goals and objectives of your visit. If you will be staying and exploring Petra for several days, you can buy a ticket with multiple entries. At the moment, it costs 50 JOD for 1 day, 55 JOD for 2 days, and 60 JOD for 3 days. Here is a link to the current ticket prices. I would suggest purchasing your tickets in advance to avoid lines.

If you will be staying in Jordan longer, it may be worth it to purchase the Jordan Pass. You can visit up to 40 other attractions and historical sights with the Jordan Pass. To enter Petra, you will just show the attendant your Jordan Pass to go inside. There are also pricing options to renter Petra multiple times with the Jordan Pass. 

Note: Not every sight is included in the Jordan Pass. This includes private property in the Jordan Valley like Mt. Nebo and Bethany Beyond the Jordan, and private property along the Dead Sea.

//Here is everything you need to know about visiting the Jordan Valley (COMING SOON).

Best time of year to visit petra

March through May or September and October is the best time of year for planning your visit to Petra. Exploring the ancient city will be more enjoyable thanks to favorable weather. May is usually the busiest month to visit Petra. When I visited in May, the locals told me it was one of the slowest years in memory due to the conflict in Gaza. The weather was still quite warm in May but it was tolerable.

Summers in Jordan can be excruciating due to the intense heat. It is not ideal to visit Petra between June and August. Surprisingly, Jordan also has a wet season and can get cold. The rainy season lasts from November to March. It occasionally even snows at Petra!

Visiting petra during ramadan

Petra is still open during Ramadan. Closing time is generally earlier though. Because of the fast, some workers may be fatigued and have lower energy, but are still happy to welcome visitors. Travelers who have visited Jordan during Ramadan have shared overwhelmingly positive experiences and Petra is significantly quieter.

How many days should you spend in petra

The amount of days you spend exploring Petra will depend on the amount of time you have in Jordan and the objectives of your trip. I decided to embark on a 5 day journey to Jordan last minute by extending a broader trip in the region. I only had one full day to explore Petra. A day was enough time for me to see the highlights of Petra and venture off to discover my own hidden corners of the ancient city . However, you have to be organized and well prepared to see Petra in a single day. My number one tip for travelers exploring Petra in a day is to wake up early and arrive as soon as the gates open at the visitor entrance. The temperatures will be much cooler and you will get to experience the magical wonders of Petra, like the Treasury and the Monastery with barely any tourists or groups.

Some people wish to allot two or three days to explore Petra in their visit to Jordan to experience the sight at a more relaxed pace. There are countless sites and trails to be discovered. Spending a few nights in Petra will also allow you to do some more of the hikes like to the Place of High Sacrifice and to the Tomb of the Prophet Aaron. Additionally, it may be best for photographers and creators to ensure they get plenty of content from different angles and perspectives, as the sunlight in Petra creates vastly different colors on the canyon and rock-cut buildings throughout the day.

getting around and navigating petra

Once you enter the sight through the Visitor Center, navigating Petra is pretty straightforward and easy to explore on your own. The main road connects the Treasury and the Monastery of Petra (the most important wonders of Petra) along with countless side trails to discover hidden gems in the ancient city. 

Google Maps is a highly effective and simple way to navigate Petra. Feel free to download the map attached to the blog to use in your visit to Petra. The path to the most important sights and hikes is well documented. Local Bedouins will help direct you if you get lost.

Free Horse ride when exiting petra

Don’t forget when planning your visit to Petra that you get a free horse-ride when leaving the sight and returning to the visitor center. I got to ride a black Arabian stallion which was a fun memory to end my day in Petra. Remember to tip the Bedouin horse keeper a few Jordanian dinar.

do you need a guide to visit petra

If you read the little history lesson at the start of this blog, I don’t think it’s necessary to have a guide in Petra. I liked being able to venture off on my own in Petra and prioritize things that were of the most interest to me. The Petra Visitor Center also provides brochures and maps of the entire sight.

where to eat

If you are like me, you will get hungry from all of the walking inside Petra. Luckily there are several cafe’s inside Petra selling various Middle Eastern dishes. There are a few restaurants along the main road across from the Royal Tombs and at the top of the summit overlooking the Monastery. You can also bring your own food and find a place to have a picnic.

what to wear in petra

It is best to wear comfortable, airy clothes and sturdy shoes for visiting Petra. Exploring Petra entails a lot of walking and time in the sun. Remember to apply sunblock and consider bringing a hat. You may wish to bring a change of clothes for Instagram pictures.

Jordan is a Muslim majority country. Unlike other countries in the region that apply a strict dress code, local customs still encourage modesty. Shorts are not banned but it is generally discouraged, including historical sights like Petra. Hijab is not required for female non-muslim travelers visiting Jordan.

photos, videos, and drones

Petra is a photographer’s dream! Every corner reveals a perfect spot for photos and videos. The time of day and position of the sun casts very different shadows, changing hues on the canyon walls of Petra. Those who have an eye for angles and colors may wish to play around with different shots throughout the day.

I don’t recommend taking pictures of the local Bedouins in Petra without explicit permission. It is generally disrespectful to take pictures of local people in Muslim countries, especially women.

Drones are genuinely prohibited in Petra. Exceptions are granted on a case by case basis when appropriate documentation and permits are acquired. Tripods and other video equipment are allowed.

top sights and exploring petra

In planning your visit to Petra, you will start your morning at the Petra Visitor Center. This is the official entrance to the ancient city. It’s just down the road from many of the hotels and restaurants in Wadi Musa. You will either validate or purchase your ticket. I highly recommend purchasing your ticket in advance. It will make the process of entering Petra much easier and most importantly save time. The walk from the entrance to Petra’s most iconic building, the Treasury, is around a mile walk. As you walk down the road, don’t miss the Obelisk Tomb, an interesting building with pyramid spires. 

From there, you will walk through the beautiful and imposing canyon, Al-Siq. The Siq is a mesmerizing narrow gorge that serves as the main entrance to the ancient city. As you venture deeper into the cool shadows of the canyon, you will be embraced by a thousand hues of red, orange, and pink. The unforgettable walk through the Siq culminates in a breathtaking reveal of Al-Khazneh, also known as the Treasury of Petra.

Indisputably the most famous sight in Petra, the Treasury of Petra is enchanting. The facade of the treasury is an interesting fusion of both Hellenistic and Nabatean architectural influences. The Treasury is adorned with beautiful Corinthian columns, mythological carvings, and is topped by an urn. Legend has it that the urn atop of the treasury conceals hidden treasure inside the rock. The purpose of the Treasury remains unknown, but a popular view among historians is that it stored important administrative papers and governmental documents.

As mentioned previously, you will want to visit Petra early. Being one of the first people in the sight will ensure you get your favorite shots of the Treasury without large crowds and tour groups. Once you get all your photos and videos, grab a seat and admire the craftsmanship and ingenuity it took to create such an extraordinary building. There are also camels in front of the Treasury and you can pay to have your picture taken with them.

Follow the road to the royal tombs

After the incredible experience of viewing the Treasury, I continued on the path just to the right of the Treasury. This road runs through another tight and winding canyon that leads to many smaller “petras”. Many paths veer off the main road leading to hidden corners of the city waiting to be discovered. Pick a trail, spread out, and let your curiosities lead the way.

As you walk, you will reach a fork in the road. I suggest sticking to the right trail that leads to the Royal Tombs of Petra. The Royal Tombs are a group of grand rose-red mausoleums, intricately carved into the side of the mountains. There are around a dozen or so well preserved petras clustered together and waiting to be discovered. Early visitors to the park will enjoy the Royal Tombs with few (if any) other visitors and will arrive before souvenir vendors set up shop right in front of the tombs. This is a great place to take some amazing photos.

The path to the monastery – A thousand sandstone steps

The Monastery is the most impressive building in all of Petra. Also known as Ad Deir, the Monastery is a colossal rock-cut building, much wider and larger than the Treasury. It sits in a beautiful, almost otherworldly plateau, high in the hills of Petra that can be reached through a canyon that includes 1,000 sandstone stairs. 

The Monastery derives its name from the crosses found in the interior of the building, indicating its usage as a church during Byzantine times. 

As you ascend up to the Monastery, I experienced unforgettable views of the desert landscape and the surrounding canyons. The walk from the Treasury to the Monastery is around an hour’s walk. The hike up to the Monastery is not arduous or difficult, but as it can be physically taxing. In general though, the amount of travelers and tour groups that make it up to the Monastery are significantly fewer than the Treasury.

How to Get to the monastery

Most people get to the Monastery by walking. The hike isn’t expert by far, although it can be challenging for those who don’t exercise often or have a physical disability (The Monastery is not wheelchair accessible). That said, those who walk up to the Monastery share how rewarding it is once you reach the top. Some portions of the path can narrow at times with the side leading to a steep drop. Never move to the side of a drop, even if people are trying to pass you.

Taking a donkey to the monastery

I rode a donkey to the top of the Monastery. The local Bedouins transport visitors on the backs of donkeys to the summit of the Monastery. This was an adventurous way to experience Petra. The ride cost me $50 roundtrip, which I found pretty reasonable. Riding donkeys is an ancient Middle Eastern practice and the donkey transport is a part of the Bedouins daily life. Ultimately, it is up to each person to assess the state of an animal before traveling on a donkey. 

The local bedouin and souvenir shops

When walking around Petra you will notice the presence of the local Bedouins. Many of the Bedouin tribes and families in Wadi Musa used to live in the caves of Petra. They now work in Petra up-keeing the site and run own the restaurants. Most of the families live on low incomes and rely on their attachment to the tourism industry in Petra for their livelihood. 

There are many souvenir stands throughout the park. You will especially notice these stalls on the journey up to the Monastery. Many will invite you to tea and then try to sell you trinkets and other cheap souvenirs. Alot of the soveinergs are cheap and the Bedouins unfortunately inflate the price drastically for tourists. 

If you have no interest in buying from the stalls, it is best to be polite but give a firm “no thank you”. I did decide to stop and have a glass ot tea with a local Bedouin family to ask questions about life in Jordan. Afterwards, I decided to buy and copper Arab coffee kettle to support them.

other sights to see in petra

The intricate and dream-like Treasury along with the journey up to the Monastery where the highlights of my travel to Petra. However, there are many other lesser visited archaeological wonders that are also worth discovering. Here are a few other sights to include while planning your visit to Petra.

roman amphitheater

The Amphitheater reflects Petra’s integration into the expansive Roman Empire. Carved directly into the canyon, the Amphitheater depicts the cultural and social life of the city during this time. A large portion of the mountain had to be removed in order to establish a large seating area and stage. Political gatherings and entertainment was hosted here for all walks of life in the city. 

church of the virgin mary

During Byzantine times, several churches were established in Petra. One of the best preserved ruins is the church of the Virgin Mary. The floor-plan of the church was a large three isle basilica. On the floor is a set of surprisingly well preserved Byzantine mosaics showcasing Christian elements and symbols.

Place of High Sacrifice

Another remarkable hike is the trek to the Place of High Sacrifice. The summit of the Place of High Sacrifice is a large rock plateau, used for the sacrifice of animals and the burning of incense. It is a decently long hike, but the panoramic views of the valleys of Petra are spectacular. The trail starts just left of the Treasury and is around a 40 minute trek one way.

tomb of aaron

Located on a mountain peak in Petra is the tomb of the Prophet Aaron. This is a holy sight for Jews, Christians, and Muslims. The walk up to the tomb can be daunting, but the scenic views of Petra are extraordinary. A humble white domed shrine marks the final resting place of the Prophet Aaron, brother of Moses. Many people of all faiths come to seek spiritual blessings. Unfortunately, I didn’t make it to the Tomb of Aaron on my first visit to Petra, but it’s on the top of my list when I return.

petra by night – lightshow at the treasury

Return to Petra in the evening to experience Petra by Night, an event that occurs every Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday in which the Treasury is illuminated by over 1,500 candles. I didn’t have enough time to return to Petra by Night, but the pictures look absolutely magical. The event runs from 8:30pm- 10:30pm with workers guiding people back to the visitor center after the show.

other experiences to have in wadi musa

While the majority of your time in Wadi Musa will probably be spent in the canyons of Petra, there are a few memorable experiences I had in the town. A little known and often missed spiritual site is the spot Moses hit a rock creating a stream to nourish the thirst of the Israelites who were lost in the desert. A simple three dome shrine stands over the stream. Locals still use the freshwater stream for drinking water.

Another amazing experience was watching the sunset over Wadi Musa from atop one of the mountains. I drove up one of the hills and park alongside the road. As I watched night greet the valley, the call to prayer drifted through the canyons and the city become alive. Friday and Saturday night is the weekend in Jordan, and I was invited by a group of local Bedouins to share some of the chicken they were barbequing over an homemade fire. We engaged in discussions about life in Wadi Musa, their livelihood raising horses and their desire to go to America. As anouther call to prayer drifted over the valley from the aden, the city became illuminated by a sea of lights. I knew I was going to forever cherish my time visiting this special place.